Eri silk is something truly special - a fabric that’s not only exceptionally comfortable and durable, but also rooted in tradition and crafted by hand in harmony with nature. This isn’t just another type of silk; it’s a textile with a unique story.
Travel with us to rural Assam, where we rear, spin, dye and weave our eri silk by hand using exclusively natural dyes and traditional processes.
The silkworm
Eri silk comes from two species of silkworms, Samia ricini and Philosamia ricini, which thrive in the wild and on small farms, mostly in northeastern and eastern India. These species are also found in parts of China and Japan, and have been more recently introduced into Thailand.
The name “eri” comes from the Assamese word “era,” meaning “castor,” because these silkworms feed on the leaves of the local, indigenous castor oil plant; a plant which is also drought resistant and requires vastly less water than the mulberry tree, grown to feed mulberry silk worms. This diet of castor leaves gives Eri silk its distinctive texture and contributes to its sustainability, making it a fabric of choice for those interested in eco-friendly materials. The production of India's Eri silk takes place almost entirely in village-based setups in the Northeast: Assam accounts for 38.3% of India's Eri silk production, Meghalaya 22.6%, Manipur 29.8 % and Nagaland 6.8 %.
Eri silkworms produce cocoons in a range of natural shades, from creamy white to a rich red-brown. To increase the quantitiy of red cocoons, worms are fed the leaves of a particular type of ficus tree in addition to their normal diet of castor leaves. The cocoons are separated after harvesting into white Eri and red Eri and produce two distinctly different shades of cloth.
Non violent silk?
One of the most remarkable aspects of Eri silk is that it’s produced without harming the silkworms. Often referred to as “ahimsa silk”, “non-violent silk” or “peace silk,” Eri silk is harvested after the silkworms have completed their metamorphosis and emerged from their cocoons. This cruelty-free approach is a significant reason why Eri silk stands out in the world of ethical fashion.
Eri silk earns its reputation as a non-violent silk because of the unique way its cocoons are spun. Unlike other silkworms, which create their cocoons in a smooth, continuous strand, Eri silkworms spin theirs in a more erratic, zig-zag pattern. This difference means that the long, unbroken floss silk filaments typically associated with conventional silk - harvested after boiling the unbroken cocoon with the silkworm still inside - can’t be obtained from Eri silk cocoons. Instead, the fibre produced is a short staple, similar to cotton or wool. Because of this, the quality of the silk isn't affected when the moth emerges and breaks the cocoon to fly away.
In Eri silk production, this short staple fibre is usually spun and woven by hand, although mechanisation is gradually being introduced in India to streamline the process.
However, one major consideration in regards to the non-violent nature of eri silk is that in many regions, including Assam, Eri silkworms are a traditional food source. If the pupae is to be eaten, it is removed from the cocoon by hand before it has metamorphosed into a moth. The pupae constitutes an important supplemental income for silk farmers and a sustainable and nutritious source of protein for the community. This practice reflects the resourcefulness of the communities that rear Eri silkworms, where nothing goes to waste.
The fibre
Eri silk production is deeply connected to the cultural heritage of the communities in northeastern and eastern India. It’s not a mass-produced textile; rather, it’s created by small-scale farmers and artisans using techniques that have been passed down through generations. In the main, the entire process - from rearing the silkworms to spinning and dyeing the yarn and weaving the fabric - is done by hand, often within the home or local cooperatives. All required inputs - from the fibre to the natural dyes - are local. This not only helps preserve traditional crafts but also provides a vital source of income for rural families, especially women, and results in an extremely low carbon footprint.
The process of making Eri silk starts with rearing the silkworms, which are fed on castor leaves until they’re ready to spin their cocoons. Unlike other types of silk, the moths are allowed to emerge from the cocoon, leaving it open-ended. In the case the silk farmer wants to sell the pupae, they are extracted, alive, by hand. The cocoons are then boiled to soften the sericin, making it easier to extract the silk fibers.
The cocoons are manipulated by hand, stretched and flattened into small “rotis” to separate fibres, dried and then spun into yarn by hand with a drop spindle, resulting in a fiber that’s shorter and more textured than other silks. This gives Eri silk its unique feel and durability. It’s handfeel is comparable to a soft, slubby cotton. The yarn can be left in its natural colour or dyed using plant-based dyes, keeping the process entirely environmentally friendly and carbon neutral.
The entirely hand-made nature of Eri silk is slowly changing, however. One of the reasons Eri silk is produced in relatively very small quantities - only 8% of the silk produced in India is Eri silk - is because the production is slowed by the very limited quantity of yarn which can be produced by this hand-spinning method. For our black eri silk that you can see used in some of our styles here, we have worked with a local Assamese company championing the machine spinning of yarn. While we are all in favour of handmade processes, the machine spinning of yarn enables a significant increase in production of the cloth which further supports silk farmers and weavers.
The cloth
Skilled weavers then hand weave the yarn into fabric on traditional shuttle looms located in their homes or community centers, often incorporating patterns that reflect the region’s cultural heritage. After weaving, the fabric is finished and ready to be tailored into garments, accessories, or home textiles. Our natural dye eri silk, available here, has been hand spun, naturally dyed and hand woven by a women's cooperative following this process. You can see the entire production documented in the video above.
The cloth itself boasts remarkable thermal properties, keeping you warm in winter and cool in summer. The shorter fibers spun into the yarn increase its breathability. Its natural hydrophilic qualities allow it to absorb water and sweat effectively. The spun yarn gives it durability and a distinctive matte finish that at once has both a rustic charm as well as a contemporary edge. Available in a palette of natural shades, from creamy whites to earthy browns, Eri silk can be dyed easily without losing its soft texture. The fabric has a slightly slubbed feel and soft touch, growing more comfortable with wear - my favourite Eri silk tops and dresses feel like a second skin. Its drape strikes a perfect balance between the light, airy quality of cotton and the graceful fall of heavier silk.
Eri silk is more than just a fabric - it’s a testament to sustainable practices and traditional craftsmanship, offering a blend of quality, ethics, and heritage that’s hard to find elsewhere.
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